How to Build a Chandelier

The photo below shows the parts required to assemble each arm of the chandelier. Each arm will require three 2 1/2-inch-long brass pipe stems (upper left), one 11-inch-long brass pipe stem (bottom), one 4-way arm back (center) and three E-26 lamp sockets (upper right).

Thread the 2 1/2-inch-long brass pipe stems into the top and bottom of the arm back.

Insert two wires through the arm back, so the ends extend approximately 2 inches through one of the 2 1/2 inch long brass pipe stems. Position one of the 11-inch-long brass pipe stems so it extends from the arm back, and cut the wires so about 2 inches of wire extends beyond the end, as shown.

Repeat step 3, cutting the wires so they will extend 2 inches beyond the final 2 1/2-inch pipe stem.

Insert two wires straight across the two 2 1/2-inch pipe stems and arm back. You will now have two sets of wires extending out from the ends of the 2 1/2 -inch stems and one set of wires for the 11-inch pipe stem, running perpendicular to the 2 1/2-inch pipe stems.

Slide the 2 1/2-inch pipe stem and 11-inch pipe stem over the wires and thread them into the remaining sockets on the arm back.

Thread the lower half of an E-26 lamp socket onto each of the 2 1/2-inch arms. Cut the wires so they extend approximately 1 inch out of the socket. Using a combination tool, strip back 1/2 inch of the jacketing to expose the metal conductor wire inside.

The wires to the positive and neutral terminals on the socket. Normal convention will have the positive screw terminal as a brass-colored screw, while the negative screw terminal will be silver in color. On the top and bottom arms (where two pairs of wire extrude) install both positive wires to the positive screw terminal and both neutral wires to the negative screw terminal.

Secure the top half of each socket. Depending on the socket design, this will either involve snapping it down into place, or sometimes a setscrew that is tightened. Repeat steps 1-9 for the remaining three chandelier arms.

Apply thread locker to the end of the pipe stem, and thread it into the chandelier body. Make sure that each arm is straight and allow the thread locker to cure. Repeat for the remaining three chandelier arms.

Cut two wires approximately 30 inches long for the top chandelier stem (which will connect to top canopy). Strip 1/2 inch of insulation from each end of the wires in the cluster and use a wire nut to secure all of the positive wires together with one of the 30-inch-long positive wires. Repeat with the neutral wires, and tuck the nuts down into the cluster.

Insert the two 30-inch long wires through the top cap, then slide the cap down and thread it onto the body.

Slide the 24-inch-long pipe stem over the two wires and thread it into the chandelier body.

The photo below shows the parts required to assemble the top canopy of the chandelier. The canopy will require a cross bar assembly (left), a canopy with 1/16-inch-wide slip hole (center), and a 1 1/16-inch slip hole retainer (right).

Adjust the cross bar assembly so the bar is slightly within the brass canopy. The retainer nut and brass canopy will need to be slid over the 24-inch-long pipe stem while the crossbar is being positioned for installation.

Turn off the breaker and verify there is no power coming from the house wiring in the box, using a voltage tester. Once you confirm that the power is off, install the cross bar onto the electrical box, securing with mounting screws, then wire the positive and neutral wires to the house wiring—positive wires to the black or red house wiring, the neutral to the white house wire. Secure the ground wire onto the cross bar with the set screw. Slide the canopy up over the slip hole retainer and and thread on the retainer nut to secure the canopy against the ceiling. Install bulbs and turn the circuit breaker back on to restore power.